Steering linkage — inspection, removal and installation
Note: This section applies only to models with a recirculating-ball steering gear.
Inspection
1. The steering linkage connects the steering gear to the front wheels and keeps the wheels in proper relation to each other. The linkage consists of the Pitman arm, the idler arm, the relay rod, two adjustable tie-rods and, on some models, a steering damper. The Pitman arm, which is fastened to the steering gear shaft, moves the relay rod back and forth. The relay rod is supported on the other end by a frame-mounted idler arm. The bac and -forth motion of the relay rod is transmitted to the steering knuckles through a pair of tie-rod assemblies.
2. Unlock the steering wheel.
3. Raise the front of the vehicle and sup- port it securely with jack stands placed underneath the frame rails.
4. Grasp the relay rod and the tie-rod and try to push them together and pull them apart. If there is more than 0.039-inch of play, replace the relay rod/tie-rod assembly. Now push up and pull down on the tie-rod end; if it moves more than 0.039-inch, replace the tie-rod end (see illustration).
5. Push up, then pull down on the relay rod end of the idler arm, exerting a force of approximately 25 pounds each way. Measure the total distance the end of the arm travels. If the play is greater than 0.078-inch, replace the idler arm.
6. Check for torn ball stud boots and bent or damaged linkage components.
Removal and installation
Tie-rod end
7. Refer to Tie-rod ends — removal and installation of this chapter for the tie-rod end replacement procedure.
Tie -rod inner (rack and pinion type)
8. Refer to the steering gear box section for removal and installation (see Steering gear — removal and installation).
Relay rod
9. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. Apply the parking brake.
10. Detach the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckle arms, then remove the tie-rod ends from the tie-rods (see Tie-rod ends — removal and installation).
11. If equipped with a steering damper, separate the damper from the relay rod.
12. Separate the relay rod from the Pitman arm.
13. Separate the relay rod from the idler arm.
14. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use new nuts on all of the ball-studs. If the ball studs spin when attempting to tighten the nuts, force them into the tapered holes with a large pair of pliers. Be sure to tighten all of the nuts to the specified torque settings.
Idler arm
15. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. Apply the parking brake.
16. Loosen but do not remove the idler arm-to-relay rod nut.
17. Separate the idler arm from the relay rod with a two-jaw puller. Remove and discard the nut — don’t reuse it.
18. Remove the idler arm-to-frame bolts.
19. To install the idler arm, position it on the frame and install the bolts, tightening them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
20. Insert the idler arm ball stud into the relay rod and install a new nut. Tighten the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the ball stud spins when attempting to tighten the nut, force it into the tapered hole with a large pair of pliers.
Pitman arm
21. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands.
22. Remove the relay rod nut from the Pitman arm ball stud. Discard the nut — don’t reuse it.
23. Using a puller, separate the relay rod from the Pitman arm ball stud.
24. Remove the steering gear (see Steering gear — removal and installation).
21.4 Push in and out on the relay rod (inner tie rod) and check for any movement between the relay rod and the rack and pinion
25. Remove the Pitman arm nut and washer and discard the nut — use a new one during installation. Mark the Pitman arm and the steering gear shaft to ensure proper alignment at reassembly time (only if the same Pitman arm is going to be used).
26. Remove the Pitman arm with a Pitman arm puller or a two-jaw puller (see illustration).
21.26 A Pitman arm puller works best
27. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage. Inspect the ball stud seal for excessive wear. Clean the threads on the ball stud.
28. When installing the replacement pitman arm, make sure the marks you made on the Pitman arm and Pitman shaft are aligned, and be sure to use a new nut.
29. Brace the Pitman arm and tighten the nut to the proper torque settings (see illustration).
21.29 Brace the Pitman arm while tightening the nut
30. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of removal.
Steering damper
31. Inspect the steering damper for fluid leakage. A slight film of fluid near the shaft seal is normal, but if there’s excessive fluid present and it’s obviously coming from the steering damper, replace the damper.
32. Inspect the steering damper bushing for excessive wear. If it’s in bad shape, replace the damper.
33. To test the damper itself, disconnect it from the relay rod. Using as much travel as possible, extend and compress the damper. The resistance should be smooth and constant for each stroke. If any binding, dead spots or unusual noises are present, replace the damper.
34. Remove the damper ball stud-to-relay rod nut. Separate the damper from the relay rod using a small puller.
35. Remove the steering damper mounting bolt and nut, then remove the damper.
36. Installation is the reverse of removal